I have to say, the Perth to Esperance road trip might just be my favourite road trip in Australia! The South West is truly spectacular that it may end up becoming one of your favourite road trips too!
Considering the Perth to Esperance road trip was our starting point for our entire two months of travelling in a Star RV motorhome, it really was hard to beat because of the amazing landscapes, exceptional beaches and scenery, that I have to say, you’ll find it hard to compare it to anywhere else in the whole of Australia.
We did the most popular Perth to Esperance route, stopping off at the main highlights and a few hidden gems which I’ll talk about in this guide.
But, there were some places we’d miss and others we wish we spent more time in. So, I’m sharing an honest guide to help you plan your trip to make the most out of this amazing part of Australia’s South West.
Best time to do the Perth to Esperance road trip
While many people might tell you the best time to do this road trip is in Summer, we actually did ours in May. Considering we had a few chilly mornings (I literally wore my Uniqlo thermals in Lucky Bay but I was in shorts by lunchtime), it was actually a great time to do this road trip. This is because it wasn’t that busy, to the point where we were able to book Lucky Bay Campground within a couple of days of arriving there.
If you didn’t know, Lucky Bay Campground is probably the most popular campground in the whole of Western Australia, where it can book up months in advance.
Fear not, I’ll talk more about campgrounds and how there are more campsites in Cape Le Grand National Park that you can book instead (and it really won’t make that much of a huge difference to your trip). Sometimes people cancel their bookings and you might be able to secure a spot like we did a few days before arriving.
How to do the road trip
If you’re flying into Perth like we did, then you might be wondering whether to hire a car, campervan or motorhome to do this trip. We hired a Star RV motorhome and having never driven one before, it was the perfect way to do this trip.
This is because we saved money on staying in campsites, we cooked all of our food (except a couple in Margaret River), and we had enough space to chill out in our van during those chilly evenings and mornings. Check out What Our Experience Was Like Driving A Star RV Motorhome to find out more about it, and you can get 10% off using our code LIS10.
If you’re wondering if you need a 4WD to do the Perth to Esperance road trip, you don’t. All the roads are sealed, even in Cape Le Grand National Park.
If you’d prefer to jump on a tour, check out this 6 day Perth to Esperance via Margaret River tour.
Which route to go on
There are two routes to consider when driving from Perth to Esperance. You have the relatively boring but quicker inland road which goes via Wave Rock in Hyden which takes about 7h30m, or you can go the coastal route via Margaret River, Albany etc which takes about 12 hours.
If you only have 5 days or so, beeline it straight to Cape Le Grand National Park via the inland route. This is by far the main highlight of the entire trip. The beaches are jaw dropping, that I even said to Steve I think they might be the best I’ve seen in the world after visiting 50 countries.
If you have more time, I would recommend you would need at least 10 days, if not 2 weeks to complete this road trip, by starting in Perth, then doing the coastal route before heading back inland. I recommend this because I think it’s way nicer to end the trip at Cape Le Grand National Park and to enjoy the best until the end. In doing this, make sure you carve out a good few days at the end here to enjoy it before beelining it back to Perth on the inland route.
Tips before you go
I do have a few tips before you set off on this road trip which I know I wish I had been told about them before planning it myself.
1. Don’t stay in Esperance
While Esperance is home to exceptional beaches, the jewel is the nearby Cape Le Grand National Park which is where most tourists make a beeline to. I would only stop in Esperance for fuel and to check out some of the pristine beaches.
If you are worried about getting into Lucky Bay Campground, there are other campsites in the national park to consider (I heard Duke of Orleans Bay is just as good).
2. Best towns to spend a little more time in
As mentioned above, there are some beach towns in Western Australia which are a bit run down and nothing like Byron Bay you might be hoping for. Don’t expect modern cafes or anything like that in most of them. But there are a few which are lovely, notably Margaret River which has loads of amazing restaurants and cafes to choose from, as well as loads to do.
I also really liked Denmark and although it has a tiny town centre, there’s something really nice about it. There are loads of things to do in Albany although the town itself needs a bit of money putting into it.
3. Fill up at petrol stations
You’ve probably seen this a lot already, but fill up every time you see a petrol station. We left Margaret River region thinking we’d automatically come across a petrol station. We took a wrong turn, ended up going on some back lanes and before we knew it, we were literally nearly out of fuel by the time we got to Pemberton (it was very touch and go!).
After that experience, we checked Fuel Map app every time we got in the van to drive and made sure we stopped at every petrol station. Fuel Map is amazing for finding cheap petrol stations, and we learnt something amazing from the guys at Star RV, that if we drove between 90-100km p/hr we would end up with double fuel, and we got 600kms out of one fuel tank. Watch my Instagram Reel on this fuel trick!
4. Stock up on water and food
One thing I noticed, especially in Margaret River was the lack of water in Coles at the time of visiting. We stocked up as much as we could as well as along the way because you have to take all water and food into Cape Le Grand National Park.
You also want to have plenty of water on you when travelling long distances in Western Australia incase you brake down. We bought all of our food in Margaret River and then stocked up once more in Esperance before heading to Cape Le Grand. There is a Coles in Albany as well, but just keep this in mind when doing this road trip.
How long to spend in Perth
While this guide is about doing a Perth to Esperance road trip, I’m not going to add days in Perth onto this itinerary because you could easily spend a few days here.
While you’re in Perth, you absolutely cannot miss a Rottnest Island day trip. We were a bit unsure how we’d feel about it given the history of it, but we had a brilliant time and highly recommend going to learn about the island, see the gorgeous quokkas and exceptional beaches while exploring Rottnest Island on a bike.
If you’re wondering, I would recommend spending 2 or 3 days in Perth so you can see the main sights before heading off on the road trip.
14 Day Perth to Esperance road trip itinerary
Day 1 & 2: Perth to Cape Naturaliste and Margaret River
Start the day nice and early and head south down to the Margaret River region. If it’s your dream to swim with wild dolphins, you can do this in Rockingham. I did it as a backpacker a long time ago and loved it, but I can’t comment about what it’s like now.
From there, you can stop in Mandurah to see the famous Giants of Mandurah by the famous sculptor, Thomas Dambo. We actually saw one of these famous sculptures in Colorado when we visited some friends a few years back and couldn’t believe there are six to check out right in Mandurah.
The day we went to see them was one of those days where we missed turns, ended up walking a longer distance than we thought it would be in the rain so we turned back and actually saw zero in the end. I wish the weather was on our side as we would have loved to have seen them.
From there, stop at the Lake Clifton Thrombolites to see the largest thrombolite reef in the southern hemisphere which is believed to be around 2000 years old. There is a wooden walkway over them, but it’s quite cool and definitely worth swinging by to see.
Then make your way east of Bunbury to see Diamond Lake (it’s a turquoise lake you can swim in) and the fun Gnomesville which is a massive collection of gnomes by the side of a road. It’s super random but a bit of fun to check out.
From there, head to Busselton next which is famous for having the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere (1,841m). You can take a little train to the end of the jetty and see an aquarium. If you’re hungry, stop by the Shelter Brewery opposite the jetty.
From here, head to Eagle Bay or Yallingup for the night up in Cape Naturaliste. I know this is a lot to do in one day, so pick and choose from these sights to fit around your plan.
Day 2: Cape Naturaliste to Margaret River
Now I have to say, the area around Cape Naturaliste is easily my favourite part of the Margaret River Region. It is so beautiful here, we kept coming back even though we were staying down at Prevelly Beach (south west of Margaret River).
We treated ourselves to what would end up being the best meal we had in two months of travelling Western Australia and Central Australia at Meelup Farmhouse. It’s a beautiful restaurant and was definitely worth splashing out for. Come here for breakfast or lunch and you won’t regret it (order the gnocchi – it’s the best I’ve had anywhere in the world)!
We also really loved Eagle Bay which was an unexpected find with a stunning beach. Visit Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse which is the windiest place in Australia, and make sure you tick off the famous Aquarium, Canal Rocks and Injidup Natural Spa. You can also visit Ngilgi Cave here too (there are loads of caves in the Margaret River region to visit).
One thing I regret is I wish we spent more time here in between Cape Naturaliste and Yallingup. I feel like we could have easily spent days here exploring as it really is amazing with incredible beaches.
In the afternoon, make your way down to Margaret River to have dinner at either Mickeys Japanese or Teddys Big Spoon for Korean food.
Day 3 & 4: Explore Margaret River
During our visit to the Margaret River region, we stayed at Prevelly Caravan Park which was good, but about a 10 minute drive from the centre of town. It is a beautiful area with stunning beaches to choose from. If you’re looking for breakfast spots, head to the White Elephant Cafe in Gnarabup which has a stunning view of the beach.
Over the next two days, I recommend visiting a couple of wineries & caves and go for a drive down to Hamelin Bay and Cape Leeuwin. Here’s how I would plan it out.
For wineries, I always find the more underrated and family owned wineries are a better option than the larger ones. We visited Brown Hill Estate after the famous story about the Bill Bailey wine. The wine was named after one of the family members, and the comedian Bill Bailey specifically went to the winery to try it for himself, which in turn became a media story in both UK and Australia. The owners are so nice and we had so much fun here. If you’re after the larger wineries, Voyagers Estate and Leeuwin Estate are two of the biggest ones to visit.
For caves, the top two to visit are Lake Cave and Jewel Cave. We couldn’t get into Jewel as it was booked up, but we loved Lake Cave and I highly recommend making the effort to visit it.
Take a drive down to Hamelin Bay to see the stingrays in the water and visit Cape Leeuwin lighthouse.
For food, we really loved Dear Darnells, and from what we were told, Morries is THE restaurant to book in town. Don’t miss a stop at the Margaret River bakery as well.
You could totally spend a good week in Margaret River region, but I do think if you split your time with two days up in Yallingup and two down in the main town, then you should be good.
Day 5 to 6: Margaret River to Denmark
As you leave Margaret River, it is only a 3h45m drive to Denmark. Leave early so you can make the most of the day as there are a couple of places to stop by and visit. What I never hear many people talk about is how beautiful the drive is from Margaret River to Pemberton. Driving through Greater Beedelup National Park is stunning as you drive through some windy roads where huge trees line the path for you to follow in what I can only describe as the most picturesque countryside.
We didn’t get time, but we would have stopped by Beedelup Falls, but make sure you 100% stop by the absolutely beautiful Pemberton Swimming Pool. It is so beautiful, I’d go as far to say it is one of the most beautiful outdoor pools I have ever seen in Australia. Check to see if Gloucester Tree is open as you can climb it if you’re brave enough and look out for wild emus just wondering around the town here.
After a quick stop in Pemberton, head to the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk just outside of Walpole. There is an entrance fee, but it’s worth it to see some of the tallest trees in the world. We were a little worried how long the walk would take considering we were running out of time, but you can complete it in like 10 minutes or so.
From here, head to Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks in William Bay National Park, two of the most famous beaches in Australia’s South West Coast which are located just outside of Denmark.
Now, this is where you want to spend the most time today. We unfortunately arrived not long before sunset and totally regret not being able to spend longer here. I would have dedicated a whole day just to these two beaches and I recommend you do too which is why I’m adding another day onto this itinerary specifically for Denmark.
Greens Pool is exceptional. It is the type of place that will blow you away because it is that beautiful. You can walk around to Elephant Rocks or drive around to the nearest car park.
From there it’s about a 10 minute walk down to the beach, but when I visited, the sunset was setting and I felt a very strong energy, almost telling me to go back when I attempted to walk down to Elephant Rocks. The tide had come in so I didn’t bother but I wish we arrived earlier so I could have spent more time there.
If you have time, do the Granite Skywalk at Castle Rock which is 4.5km walk which takes between 1-2 hours. Denmark itself is a lovely little town. It is very small but it was one of the nicer small towns that we went to once you leave Margaret River and head to Esperance.
We stopped off at the Denmark Bakery – home to apparently Australia’s best sausage rolls, which were in fact pretty good.
Day 6 to 8: Denmark to Albany
When leaving the gorgeous town centre of Denmark, it’s time to head to Albany which is one of those towns people seem to love to hate. I’ve seen it all over social media how people think it’s a hole, but what they are forgetting is Albany is home to some of the best beaches in Australia. It blows my mind how people can hate it so much, yet the beaches here really are incredible. Maybe it’s because the town itself is a bit run down and has an industrial feel to it.
We only spent a day here, but could have easily spent two, and I recommend you do the latter. We stopped off at the Gap lookout and Natural Bridge first which are both incredible. The drive alone down to them is amazing and you quickly realise how beautiful this region is when you can see across to the coastline of Torndirrup National Park.
I also recommend checking out the amazing Salmon Beach and of course Misery Beach in Torndirrup National Park, which was crowned the best beach in Australia in 2022. At the time of visiting, the beach was closed but we were able to see if from a distance and it really is amazing as a sheer granite boulder scales the side of the beach is something you won’t see anywhere in Australia.
Another must see is Little Beach in Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve which is a bit of a drive outside of Albany. Do not miss this beach! It is so incredible and will easily make it onto your top beaches in Australia list.
We could have spent ages checking out all of the beaches in the area, but as we only had a day, we were impressed with the sights we did see and would go back in a heartbeat.
Day 8-9: Albany to Bremer Bay
It’s a two hour drive to Bremer Bay from Albany and worth stopping by unless you’re happy to drive over 5h30m to Cape Le Grand National Park. The reason why people tend to stop off at Bremer Bay is because it’s the only place in Australia where you can see orcas, aka killer whales.
We only stopped over here for the night and although it looked beautiful, we weren’t visiting at the right time of year to see them which is between January – April. If you’d like to see orcas in the wild, check out this bucket list Orca Whale Watching Tour.
Day 9-12: Explore the amazing Cape Le Grand National Park
Today it’s a 4h30m drive to Cape Le Grand National Park. I would recommend stopping off in Esperance to get any last minute supplies as there is nowhere to eat or drink and no phone reception in the national park and it’s nearly an hour’s drive between Lucky Bay and Esperance.
If you can’t get into Lucky Bay Campground, there are other campgrounds in the park like Wharton Beach, Duke of Orleans Bay and Cape Le Grand Beach. I spoke to a local and he said that most locals prefer Wharton Beach over Lucky Bay.
On the way to to the park there is an Aussie version of Stonehenge which looks like a bit of a novelty!
But, nothing will prepare you for when you see Lucky Bay beach for the first time. It is so beautiful, you’ll quickly realise you have entered a national park which is home to the best beaches in the world with crystal clear waters. Every single beach we visited here is jaw dropping! They are so pristine and untouched, it really is a sight to be seen.
Check out our Lucky Bay Guide as there quite a bit to do here, including the Coastal Walk Trail to Thistle Cove which only takes 30 minutes.
This beach and Hellfire Bay next door are incredible beaches that you absolutely must see (I have to say Hellfire Beach is probably my favourite beach in Australia!). You can also hike up to Frenchman’s Peak if you’re up for a challenge.
Get up for sunrise at Lucky Bay beach although don’t be surprised if you don’t see any kangaroos on the beach (we didn’t see any during our visit) and honestly just enjoy the incredible serenity and pristine nature of this bucket list national park.
I would recommend spending at least three days here at Cape Le Grand National Park and a day in Esperance as there are some amazing beaches to visit including Twilight Beach (this is the one people jump off the boulders into the ocean) and Wylie Beach.
I would also 100% recommend doing the Rainbow Lakes and Cape Le Grand Scenic Flight with Esperance Air. We did it and it’s absolutely amazing (read my Rainbow Lakes Scenic Flight Review), just do it at the end so you can appreciate all of the amazing beaches you went to from the air as well as the incredible lakes which can only be seen from air as they are on private land.
If you’re looking to visit the pink lakes in Esperance, check out my guide on the Best Pink Lakes in Australia which includes a couple which are no longer pink in the region.
Day 12-13: Esperance to Wave Rock
Once we finished our scenic flight with Esperance Air, we then made our way to Wave Rock, one of Western Australia’s biggest tourist sites as we continued our Perth to Esperance road trip. It’s a 4h30m drive and you’ll pass by Lake King and other salt lakes on the way there.
We stayed at the Wave Rock Caravan Park and woke up early to see Wave Rock which really is amazing in person. You can do a circuit walk or it’s just a couple of minutes from the carpark to see the rock.
We also visited Lake Magic Salt Pool which is a great drone spot but we didn’t swim in it.
Day 13-14: Wave Rock to Perth
On your final day back to Perth, you’ll be driving around 4 hours to get back. There are a couple of places to stop by on your way back including Quairinding Pink Lake (it wasn’t pink at the time of visiting but made a great drone shot) before heading to the lovely town of York for something to eat.
York also makes a lovely day trip from Perth too and we could have spent a day here just checking out all the vintage and antique shops.
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